On Friday the 22nd of April, we were up bright and early to head off on a four day tour which would eventually culminate at Salar de Uyuni. I knew little about the rest of the tour, apart form the blurb on the leaflet, but it sounded amazing. We knew not to expect much of the accommodation and also that there would be no hot showers until the third day. However we had thermal springs, geysers, flamingoes and coloured lagoons to look forward to!
We departed with our lovely guide, Bernardo (later named Bernie by Rhian), and a French couple who were also part of our group. On the way we picked up Augustina (our cook, later known as Angie - Rhian again!) and some coca leaves.
The first part of the journey, near Tupiza, was through stunning red rocks. This area is famous because of Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid. We picnicked in the middle of nowhere, the back of the jeep became our buffet table. Angie did us proud.
After lunch we made our way to San Antonio de Lipez, a small town, overshadowed by a mountain of the same name. We could have stayed the night. However we'd all decided it would be better to travel further on Day 1 so that there were less hours on Day 2. We crossed the altiplano, viewing snow capped mountains and arrived in San Antonio - a ghost town! It was a gold town but was abandoned because of people going mad due to the high altitude (or so Bernie told us). Or perhaps the gold ran out!
After yet more hours in the jeep we stopped at a viewpoint for a lake, hurriedly taking a few photos and then getting back in as quickly as possible as the day was wearing on and it was somewhat chilly! Or last view before darkness was of the sun setting over the mountains as we made our way to Quetena Chico. We also had to pay our entry fee to the Reserva Nacional Eduardo Avaroa (REA). Bernie got us safely to our base for the night, giggling most of the way!
The stars throughout the trip were amazing - they were so close it felt like you should be able to touch them. I have never seen the milky way as clear as it is in the altiplano of Bolivia. (Although, of course, it is pretty spectacular in Norfolk).
It was a cold night in Quetena Chico, but we still managed to get through two bottles of wine before retiring in all our clothes, sleeping bags, liner, sheets and blankets! Bernie (who was quite competitive with the other drivers) told us to be up for breakfast at 6.30am so we could be the first to leave at 7.00am. This would mean that we would get to the thermal waters first!
We left at about 7.30am - not bad by South American standards! Angie was holding us up, allegedly! The second day was just incredible - so many beautiful and amazing sites. We bathed in the hot waters of Rio Amargo; Desierto dali - mad rock formations in the desert; Laguna Verde - the waters are green because of copper deposits; geysers bubbling mud and sending out sulphuric steam.
Laguna Colorado was the last port of call and it truly was incredible. The waters are orangey red because of the plankton living in it and flamingoes feed on the plankton - making them beautifully pink! I was in absolute photographic heaven! We stayed close to the laguna and managed another couple of bottles of wine. I bought everyone in the group an early Easter present of a twix when I found them in the tiny shop! This was also, hilariously, where Rhian was trying to think of French words that we use in the UK...her last word came out just as the light was turned off in the room, "Soiree", she called. We all collapsed about in giggles and went to sleep.
Day 3 was another early start. Our first stop was in Desierto de Siloli, where there is the famous 'arbol de piedra' or 'stone tree'. It was yet another amazing landscape. We took our photos and continued on to more beautiful lakes reflecting snow capped mountains and volcanoes. We also drove through the valley of rocks and stopped for another picnic lunch just beyond it. It was so picturesque it was almost untrue!
We arrived in Uyuni, got the hot showers we'd been promised and then checked out the Cemeterio de Tren - train cemetery. The contrast of rusty train and blue sky was beautiful.
Day 4, we left Uyuni just before 6am so we could see the sunrise on Salar de Uyuni - it was most definitely worth it, the colours were amazing. We breakfasted in a salt hotel - Augustina made us pancakes for our last breakfast! We then traversed the salt flat to take the obligatory foolish photos. Bernie was a master of what was possible!
Finally back to Uyuni for our last lunch made by Augustina and then an eight hour wait for the bus to La Paz.
Uyuni was not the most exciting of places and we were glad to be heading on to La Paz. We lurked; used the internet; chatted to a fellow traveller and generally got quite bored!
To see photos of my travels, check out my flickrstream!
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