Friday 15 April 2011

Puerto Natales & Perito Moreno

I arrived in Puerto Natales, Patagonia, late last Tuesday night (5th April). I had planned to spend the night in Punta Arenas but happened to be sat next to an English guy on the plane who was heading to Puerto Natales too - we decided we'd both feel braver if we tackled it together. I even used my best Spanish to ring and find out if there was a bus from the airport (all the taxi drivers were telling me there wasn't, but have learned not to trust all taxi drivers.)

My new friend Gavin and I made it to the bus by the skin of our teeth as it didn't look like it was going to wait and he'd chosen that moment to go for a wander! Luckily for me, Gavin had done a little research and found a hostel to stay in. Luckily for him, I had enough Spanish to charm the bus conductor type chappy into dropping us off one block away from the Plaza de Armas!

Walking into the hostel, much to my delight, I discovered that the guy who runs it looks very much like Jonny Depp. I have had a love for Jonny for many years, so to find his doppelgänger in Patagonia was most exciting (although admittedly this version was much shorter than I imagined Jonny to be. I mean obviously he must be taller than me, not the same height!)

Later on I also discovered that 'Jonny' was a very fine guitarist - heaven, thought I. 

I was liking Puerto Natales already and even more so once Gavin and I had visited the fine vegetarian restaurant El Living, situated just across the plaza from the hostel. My vegetarianism has been quite lax of recent, well, when in Argentina, etc, etc. However I do still love to eat good veggy food whenever the opportunity arises!

Next day (Wednesday), I helped Gavin to assemble what he needed for a 5 day trek in Torres del Paine National Park. He'd hoped I would be persuaded to join him, but the scars from Gold Duke of Edinburgh Award still go deep and I wasn't up for 5 days carrying lots of stuff. However the knowledge from that made me a very useful person to help him get organised. Apparently he's done lots of trekking, although this really didn't seem that obvious. I think he just needed someone to give him a bit of guidance and reassurance! We also went to a free talk given by Erratic Rock - here Gavin found more people to trek with. 

The highlights of my day were clean clothes; more yummy vegetarian food and deciding to go to Perito Moreno the following day and on a boat trip on Friday to see more glaciers closer to home.

That night, 'Jonny' asked me if I would sing and quite a jamming session ensued. It was lots of fun! We were joined by a lovely German lad called Louis who was a pretty mean guitarist too. I did the usual and even if I didn't know the song, found the words and busked along! At time I felt that 'Jonny' was serenading me...turned out later I was right!

Thursday, I was up before dawn to get my bus to Perito Moreno. It was quite a crazy day with most of it spent on a bus and only about 3 hours not on a bus - but it was most definitely worth it. The Perito Moreno glacier is amazing. I was wowed from my first glimpse. Incredibly it has a land area the same size as Buenos Aires! It was also bloody freezing and I made people chuckle on the boat ride as I jigged about to keep warm. 

Returning to Puerto Natales it felt like I was heading home. I was looking forward to the warmth and cosiness of the hostel and of course to seeing 'Jonny' again. On arrival I discovered the lovely Hayley - an awesome girlie! We chatted and laughed with 'Jonny' and his friend Carlos. Another great night. The boys were heading off climbing the next day and invited us both to join them. However I had already booked a boat trip to see the Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers the next day so sadly declined.

Friday I was up before dawn again to head off on my boat trip. I was a little concerned as outside the hostel it seemed to be blowing a gale. I wondered if the trip would be cancelled, but all seemed in order when I arrived at the office.

On the boat I made friends with three Indians who now live in the states. They have been friends for a long time and made for great company. Also one of the lovely ladies had travel sick pills which were most necessary! As the waves outside got bigger and the boat swayed more, the crew decided to turn back. This was an hour and a half into the trip and whilst I was happy in some ways I was also a bit annoyed they hadn't decided earlier as it would have meant I was able to go on the climbing trip. The saving grace was Indy, who was hilarious and very interested in my trip to Vietnam. Turns out he's planning a trip there. I gave him my email address before I departed so he could get in touch about Vietnam.*

Back in Puerto Natales I crashed out for a major siesta - very necessary after two early mornings and two very late nights.

That night, 'Jonny' had a gig to play, but assured us he'd be back by 11pm and then we could all go out dancing. Hayley, Carlos and I chilled at the hostel. We had a big music exchange which was brilliant. I have even more tunes now and love everything I was given! I really enjoy sharing music with people. I think I'm pretty good at seeing what people have and being able to give them music that they will love. I pretty much have music to suit everybody as I'm now travelling with about 55gb worth!

When we finally went out at about 11.30pm Hayley instigated a drinking game which involved choosing a drink for the person on your left! I hate this kind of thing as I'm quite bad at making decisions when put on the spot. I was also concerned about what Carlos would choose for me. I did well and was given pisco and ginger ale. The pisco was very strong, but the ginger ale made it good. Do love a bit of ginger! Turned out it was one of Carlos' fave drinks - handy info for the next round when we had to choose for the person on the right! 'Jonny' chose a vodka and orange for me - not impressed, dislike both the ingredients on that drink. Somehow I managed to drink it and then demanded to go dancing. I may have been a little feisty and insistent, but I knew the only way to cope with the alcohol content was to dance it off! 

We headed to another bar, where we all had a soft drink and finally ended at a disco. 'Jonny' instantly started to dance with Hayley which bothered me briefly. However I danced with Carlos who is a great dancer and we also made each other laugh loads! Y'know how I pull foolish faces about things, well he does the same thing.

Later, I noticed Hayley and 'Jonny' kissing, they then left together. I was pretty gutted and would have been more so without the lovely company of Carlos. I was also shocked that I'd been so taken in by someone ('Jonny' that is). However there was a happy outcome, Carlos and I stayed up all night talking and laughing and hopefully I will be seeing him again in Peru. I really like him.

Saturday was a fairly weird and horrible day. I didn't want to go back to the hostel but knew I had to at some point. Hayley wasn't there when I got back but she soon returned and we talked loads. She's great and we decided to take off into Torres del Paine the next day. I would stay over night and she would continue to complete the 'w' trek.

I said goodbye to Carlos that night as he would be leaving for Peru whilst I was in the park. Fingers crossed I will see him again - will keep you informed!


*Indy and I have been emailing each other on and off for a few days and it's great. He writes very funny emails and crazily we share the same birthday!


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