Lima & Lurgy!

Leaving Cusco made me very aware that although I usually meet good people, I cannot rely on them to look out for me in the same way that friends from home would. I decided Cusco had been a lesson in remembering to take care and look out for myself.

On the twenty hour bus to Lima I also became aware that I was becoming pretty sick. Blocked sinuses are really not good to have at altitude. However being on a bus for that length of time does force you to rest which I certainly needed.

Arriving in Lima I made my way to the Kokopelli hostel in Miraflores, where my friends Joanne and Matt were also staying. They had left messages that they were on a tour and I chilled until they got back.

The next few days were lovely (apart from the horrible lurgy which meant that every time I sneezed or coughed, I followed it with 'ow'. Much to Matt's amusement!). I caught up with Vanessa, my lovely Canadian friend from earlier in the trip; ate a great vegetarian buffet in an old railway carriage with a piano player; went and saw skeletons in catacombs and ate several good meals. I really enjoyed spending some more time with Joanne and Matt - it was all very chilled, exactly what was needed after Cusco.

I do feel that I didn't really give Cusco the time it deserved, but moving on meant I had time to get to Huanchaco to meet up with Ursula (great friend from Quito who has been travelling in Peru for almost two years).

Last Tuesday I got on another night bus and made my way to Trujillo and then Huanchaco.

A note about Lima:

I was surprised that I enjoyed Lima as I had had absolutely no interest in spending time there - however as with many things, I think it has a lot to do with who your with and the company was excellent!

Cusco & Macchu Picchu

I arrived in Cusco on the 6th of May and was excited about the prospect of some partying as it had been a fairly quiet month. We were staying in The Wild Rover which has quite a reputation. On our first night we put it to the test...

There was glitter; dancing on the bar; nurses hats; random banter; pints of rum and coke; lots of smiling and laughing...and rather a lot of missing memory. I remember buzzing around the bar talking to many different people - Rhian confirmed this and the great big grin on my face...I'm just not sure how I ended up in the right dorm but the wrong bed. The only reason I found out was because the correct owner of the bunk arrived back at 7am..at first I denied everything, but it quickly became apparent that she was right and I was indeed in her bed. I quickly apologised and snuck into my own for a few more hours kip. Luckily Rhian also had some significant gaps so that made me feel considerably better.

Saturday was a fairly non day apart from a massage in the afternoon - one of my favourite hangover cures. Although I did get a little concerned whilst waiting for my massage when an American gent was being fairly vocal about how much he was enjoying his massage - had I stumbled into a den of ill repute? Luckily no, he was just a twat! Hahahahahaha!

On Sunday there was a big 'Killer' pool tournament - I declined entry, but did get chatting to a lovely couple called Joanne and Matt. We were having a splendid time and being marginally foolish. Matt won the tournament and therefore we had to dance on the bar to celebrate! After that we decided the casino was also a marvellous plan..Joanne declined, but Matt and I were all for it. (I've never been into a casino in my life, and still haven't as we were declined entry because we were too drunk - even after I tried to explain in my best Spanish!!).

"Where now?" I enquired.

"To Mama Afrika's," replied Matt.

After that it all becomes a bit blurry again...I know there was dancing though, lots of dancing. And Matt wearing my hat.

Monday was a strange day...I really wasn't happy about two nights with so much missing memory. I was also feeling kind of down as I knew I would be going in a separate direction from Rhian and Simon the next day. It was a vulnerable and fragile day, for different reasons. I decided an early night was the best plan of attack as I was heading to Aguas Calientes the next day and would be hitting Macchu Picchu on Wednesday. 

Unfortunately an early night was impossible with the noise from the bar; the noise from two of my room mates who kept coming in and out of the room in various stages of intoxication and the noise from my brain over thinking.

The journey to Ollyantambo was spent mostly asleep; as was the train trip to Aguas Calientes to be honest. The train runs through a beautiful valley, but I just couldn't keep my eyes open. 

On arrival in Aguas Calientes we were met by a guy from our hostel (there were a few of us who had taken the trip from Cusco). After being shown my room I went wandering and later bumped into the others and spent some more time wandering with them. 

We were met by a guide later that night in the hostel and advised to get up and leave the hostel by 3am in order to get on the first bus to Macchu Picchu - this would mean we would be able to be one of the four hundred who are able to get tickets to climb Huayna Picchu. However, our hostel told us they would get breakfast ready for 3am - this seemed reasonable (as reasonable as getting up at that hour in the morning can be!). By this point it was about 8pm and I retired, once more hoping for an early night...

But, no...across the street from my room they were refurbishing a shop - this went on all night. I finally got to sleep after midnight and only slept for two to three hours. Regardless of this fact, I was still one of the first to breakfast. 

The two hour wait at the bus station for the first bus at 5.30am was tedious and I got a very numb bum. Sleeping for about twenty minutes on the actual bus did not make up for it. We arrived at about 6am...our guide wasn't due until 7.45am. The others went off wandering around the site but I didn't want to do that as I knew I'd pay no attention to the guide if I'd already looked around - I know what I'm like. 

I spotted some folks I recognised from Friday night - they confirmed that I had been highly entertaining...when they went on their way I found a quiet spot and waited for the sun. It was perfect, I watched the sun coming over the mountain tops and slowly lighting up the whole site. Just beautiful!

I had this lovely spot to myself for some time - until tour groups started arriving with guides pointing out the incredible view. I was glad to have had my own tranquil meditation with Macchu Picchu.

The guided tour was much as I expected, at times interesting and at times a little dull. The site is incredible though and it was definitely worth going. Unfortunately though, my fear of heights kicked in a couple of times walking around, so I decided there was no way I would cope with the climb up Huayna Picchu - just looking at it made me feel sick!

Lack of sleep sometimes made it difficult to pay attention and at one point I almost fell asleep on my feet! Snacks purchased in Aguas Calientes helped me to stay awake. When the tour finished, I spent some more time wandering on my own and got back to Aguas Calientes by lunchtime. The afternoon was spent mostly eating or reading 'The Motorcycle Diaries', which I found in a bookshop there.

I finally got back to Cusco at about 11pm - it probably would have been wise to go to bed. However I grabbed a shower and joined the party!

Another marvellous night ensued - one which I actually remember - hurray! More bar dancing in several different locations; cartwheels on the street; running round different streets to beat the others back to the hostel; boys play fighting; post beer burgers - I ate Matt's, oops! He forgave me though and wouldn't take any money.

Thursday - by the time I got up, Matt and some of the staff were already on the shots (and it was only midday!). The afternoon progressed into a loving jamming session - with Shaun (who I jammed with in Santiago), myself and Rowan (bar staff). It was a really lovely and chilled afternoon - perfect after a ridiculous night! Or it was, until someone said something particularly nasty to me.

The nastiness may have come from a kind of jealousy, or a nose being put out of joint, but it was unnecessary and unkind. It also made me make the decision to leave Cusco the next day and follow Matt and Joanne to Lima, I wanted to be around good people. I also decided that from Lima I would head on to Huanchaco to catch up with Ursula.

Lake Titicaca

The journey to Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca was one of the shortest for some time! We were slightly baffled at one point when we were told to leave the bus for safety reasons. However it soon became clear that we actually had to cross Lake Titicaca to reach our destination (this was via the Straits of Tiquina). It's quite mental seeing a big ol' bus being loaded onto a barge type thing and floating across the water.

We stayed at the Ecolodge just outside Copacabana. We had a lovely cabaña in the garden. The people at the hostel were very sweet and even went out to get us pizza after we'd drunk a couple of bottles of red wine. Rhian and I managed to get through a third bottle and we had a very giggly evening! However as our stay progressed, we realised that although they were very sweet, they didn't really have clue (they've only been there for about a month). For example, they made our beds but didn't empty the bins or clean the bathroom.

Copacabana was a sweet, touristy town. On our second day there we wandered around and saw various vehicles being blessed (we had arrived during one of their fiestas). I liked it because it was a place for Bolivian tourists as well as travellers. We also discovered a very naughty shop, with many lovely bags and beautiful jewellery. I actually managed to resist - shocking!

Last Tuesday we took a boat to Isla del Sol. I was quite grumpy in the morning and I think it was because of there being a feeling of unknown about the trip to the island - if I'd been on my own I don't think it would have bothered me, but as I had made the suggestion of only going for the day I think I was worried that Simon and Rhian may have been disappointed. It was a bit of a step back into the past and I didn't enjoy it - my issue though.

We trekked across the island and it was beautiful - hard at times but most definitely worth it. It also confirmed that whilst I'm happy to trek for a day, I just wouldn't enjoy a trek that was over several days. 

After this we had one last night in the hostel before heading to Puno. We were all excited about seeing the floating islands. Also Simon was much better and Rhian was improving too.

(Whilst in Copcabana, Simon and I developed quite a pringles habit!)

The bus to Puno took about three hours; the border crossing was straightforward; I was happy to be back in Peru.

At our new hostel, we were about to knock on the door when it suddenly opened and we were called 'angels' by Alfred our new host! He was brilliant and really made us all giggle - particularly me and Rhian. He was most definitely a larger than life character!!

Sadly the next day when we woke up to head to the islands, Simon was ill again, so Rhian and I set off without him. The islands were fascinating - we stopped on one and got invited into one of the women's houses - before we knew it we were being dressed in traditional costumes. The woman was quite scary and when I misunderstood something she said in Spanish, she scowled at me. There were also souvenirs to buy -it was difficult because I felt obliged to buy something but I didn't really like anything there. I settled for a small mobile in the end.

Back at the ranch, Simon was still in a bad way - I think due to the altitude. Rhian and I explored and had a nice girlie afternoon. We both hoped he'd feel better the next day as we had bought tickets to get to Cusco.

I may be a shopoholic but I will not buy anything with llamas on it!

We arrived in La Paz early on Tuesday morning, after the most horrendous bus journey I have ever had.

At first when the bus started shaking because of the bad road from Uyuni, we laughed, little did we know it would continue like that for five hours. To add insult to potential back injury, we were on the back seat of the bus and could not recline our seats. Mine was in fact so upright that it pushed my head forwards. I will admit to crying at one point as my whole body shook and I had shooting pain through my back. Rhian was in a similar state - we both admitted to the tears the next day. She offered to swap seats with me, but I told her to wait till we were half way, around 1am. Luckily at about that time the bus finally got on to a made up road (around Oruro I think) and we managed to sleep on and off till we got to La Paz.

Coming out of the bus station we were approached by a man asking if we needed a taxi- standard practise. Less standard for me, with my experience of Ecuador, was the kind policewoman who asked where we needed to go and gave us directions to our hostel which was very near by.

We spent the morning sitting around, using the wifi when it worked and waiting for our room to be ready. We got into it by about 12.30pm and almost instantly we crashed out until after 5pm. Later on we headed to The Star of India for curry - highly recommended by several people we spoke to, the guidebook and my friend Paula! We had to wait an hour for the table but all agreed the curry was worth it when it eventually arrived.

Waking on Wednesday morning, I discovered that Simon was really sick. Rhian was worried, but as he wasn't very coherent it was difficult to find out what was wrong. We decided to head out for some shopping and to get him some medication, based on what we did know.

Rhian and I had a lovely day exploring the witches market and buying lovely items of frippery. I purchased some beautiful cushion covers with lovely block colours on them and the most incredible skirt. It's designer and was on the mannequin outside the shop - unfortunately the person manning the shop was at lunch when we called the first and second times. Third time lucky (plus a little chat with the ladies opposite) meant we eventually found it open. I tried the skirt on and had to have it. (Rhian also encouraged me!) I knew it was impractical for travelling as it's made from wool and is quite heavy, this also means it's impractical for Vietnam...but it really was love at first sight! Ha!

We also saw many llama jumpered gringos walking around. I'm glad I made the pledge in Ecuador that I would not buy anything with a llama on it. Of course I did have the hat that I was given, but I managed to pass that on to Hayley!

We also pottered along to take a look at San Pedro prison. You used to be able to visit it and apparently still can but we weren't approached by anyone...I think I was quite glad about that really.

All in all it was a lovely girlie day.

Back at the hostel Simon was no better and we had a new room mate called Kate. Kate had been sick on and off for a month, including being hospitalised for parasites and salmonella. At about 2am, she left the room telling us she was going back to the hospital.

On Thursday morning, Rhian called a Dr for Simon and I headed off to see the Tiwanaku ruins. 

I have to admit that I wasn't overly impressed by the ruins. It's the only recommendation from my friend Enzo in Santiago that I have not enjoyed. I have to be honest I was pretty bored. The ruins are partly excavated; there are bits missing and some of the reconstruction has been completed with concrete. The museums were okay but we were whisked round them fairly swiftly by our guide. My only amusement/entertainment for the trip was a young Aussie lad who seems to be a bit of a Che Guevera wannabe.  He was very sweet and idealistic, stating things like he sometimes wished he was older so that he knew more things - I told him to enjoy the journey. He also struck quite a few dramatic and moody poses around the ruins - I wasn't surprised when I found out he studied music theatre, although he's considering changing to law. (Just a slight change there me thought!) Ah well he was nice enough and the day would have been even drearier without any company. Lunch was good and was probably the highlight for me.

Once home again Simon still wasn't very good, but now had a diagnosis of a parasite and many types of medication with very precise instructions of what to take when. 

Yesterday Simon was considerably better and we wandered around the witches market again, showing him all the marvellous potions, lotions and varying dried state of llama that could be bought. We stopped for lunch in El Lobo, recommended on our map and known for falafel and humus. It was delicious. Unfortunately, soon after eating, Rhian started getting stomach cramps. I had the same food though and was fine - I guess that two years in Ecuador has given me a stronger stomach.

Two weirdnesses occurred yesterday:

1. Both Rhian and I had our boob punched by a random Bolivian. I was so surprised that I didn't react, but it did hurt!
2. A Scottish guy walked into both of us, when I gave him a bit of a stare he called us 'stuck up bitches'. He looked like he had the potential to cause both of us some damage, so we swiftly ran across the road to escape. He was obviously off his head, but it really was nasty and unnecessary. We were both pretty shaken.

As Simon got better, Rhian worsened and she really hasn't been too good at all today. We did have a lovely meal tonight though, at Wagamamas. We thought it might be part of the chain back home, it wasn't, but was still very good Japanese food.

I really haven't done or seen much in La Paz, it's been so easy to hang out with Rhian and Simon that I haven't strayed far. I'm not bothered though, the bits I have seen are fairly similar to Quito. One first though was seeing a little old woman walk into the road, bend over, aim and pee. I knew the rumour that indigenous woman wore nothing under their skirts for this reason, but had never seen it in practise before.

Tomorrow we're getting a bus to Copacabana, Lake Titicaca. I'm looking forward to more beautiful scenery again.

Tupiza to Uyuni, Bolivia

On Friday the 22nd of April, we were up bright and early to head off on a four day tour which would eventually culminate at Salar de Uyuni. I knew little about the rest of the tour, apart form the blurb on the leaflet, but it sounded amazing. We knew not to expect much of the accommodation and also that there would be no hot showers until the third day. However we had thermal springs, geysers, flamingoes and coloured lagoons to look forward to!

We departed with our lovely guide, Bernardo (later named Bernie by Rhian), and a French couple who were also part of our group. On the way we picked up Augustina (our cook, later known as Angie - Rhian again!) and some coca leaves.

The first part of the journey, near Tupiza, was through stunning red rocks. This area is famous because of Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid. We picnicked in the middle of nowhere, the back of the jeep became our buffet table. Angie did us proud.

After lunch we made our way to San Antonio de Lipez, a small town, overshadowed by a mountain of the same name. We could have stayed the night. However we'd all decided it would be better to travel further on Day 1 so that there were less hours on Day 2. We crossed the altiplano, viewing snow capped mountains and arrived in San Antonio - a ghost town! It was a gold town but was abandoned because of people going mad due to the high altitude (or so Bernie told us). Or perhaps the gold ran out!

After yet more hours in the jeep we stopped at a viewpoint for a lake, hurriedly taking a few photos and then getting back in as quickly as possible as the day was wearing on and it was somewhat chilly! Or last view before darkness was of the sun setting over the mountains as we made our way to Quetena Chico. We also had to pay our entry fee to the Reserva Nacional Eduardo Avaroa (REA). Bernie got us safely to our base for the night, giggling most of the way!

The stars throughout the trip were amazing - they were so close it felt like you should be able to touch them. I have never seen the milky way as clear as it is in the altiplano of Bolivia. (Although, of course, it is pretty spectacular in Norfolk).

It was a cold night in Quetena Chico, but we still managed to get through two bottles of wine before retiring in all our clothes, sleeping bags, liner, sheets and blankets! Bernie (who was quite competitive with the other drivers) told us to be up for breakfast at 6.30am so we could be the first to leave at 7.00am. This would mean that we would get to the thermal waters first!

We left at about 7.30am - not bad by South American standards! Angie was holding us up, allegedly! The second day was just incredible - so many beautiful and amazing sites. We bathed in the hot waters of Rio Amargo; Desierto dali - mad rock formations in the desert; Laguna Verde - the waters are green because of copper deposits; geysers bubbling mud and sending out sulphuric steam.

Laguna Colorado was the last port of call and it truly was incredible. The waters are orangey red because of the plankton living in it and flamingoes feed on the plankton - making them beautifully pink! I was in absolute photographic heaven! We stayed close to the laguna and managed another couple of bottles of wine. I bought everyone in the group an early Easter present of a twix when I found them in the tiny shop! This was also, hilariously, where Rhian was trying to think of French words that we use in the UK...her last word came out just as the light was turned off in the room, "Soiree", she called. We all collapsed about in giggles and went to sleep.

Day 3 was another early start. Our first stop was in Desierto de Siloli, where there is the famous 'arbol de piedra' or 'stone tree'. It was yet another amazing landscape. We took our photos and continued on to more beautiful lakes reflecting snow capped mountains and volcanoes. We also drove through the valley of rocks and stopped for another picnic lunch just beyond it. It was so picturesque it was almost untrue!

We arrived in Uyuni, got the hot showers we'd been promised and then checked out the Cemeterio de Tren - train cemetery. The contrast of rusty train and blue sky was beautiful.

Day 4, we left Uyuni just before 6am so we could see the sunrise on Salar de Uyuni - it was most definitely worth it, the colours were amazing. We breakfasted in a salt hotel - Augustina made us pancakes for our last breakfast! We then traversed the salt flat to take the obligatory foolish photos. Bernie was a master of what was possible!

Finally back to Uyuni for our last lunch made by Augustina and then an eight hour wait for the bus to La Paz.

Uyuni was not the most exciting of places and we were glad to be heading on to La Paz. We lurked; used the internet; chatted to a fellow traveller and generally got quite bored!

To see photos of my travels, check out my flickrstream!

Arrival in Bolivia!

Last Wednesday I left my hostel in La Quiaca fairly early as check out was at 10am. This was after a very quiet night watching a film on my laptop and being slightly too nervous to go out and find food. I've been eating so well recently that I decided one missed meal wouldn't hurt!

I walked across the border bridge to Villazon, with no problems, and on arriving in Bolivia discovered it was an hour earlier (even though the bridge is probably about ten metres in length from one country to the next!). This meant I had 6 or so hours to wait before I got on the train to Tupiza, where Rhian and Simon would be waiting for me. What to do thought I??

My first mission was to change my Argentinian Pesos for Bolivianos – very simple there are money exchanges as soon as you cross the bridge. I know it wasn't the best rate of exchange but at least I had some local currency.

My second mission was to find a bank machine – my guide book had reliably informed me that there is one in Villazon, so I set out to look for it. I asked a few people for directions and was pleased to find the plaza and the bank machine - or so I thought. Unfortunately the machine didn't recognise any of my cards - shit! I returned to the plaza and consulted my travel bible...phew, I went to the wrong bank. I made my way to the other bank and was told by the security guard that there wouldn't be any cash for a couple of hours. Of course this didn't matter as I had plenty of time. I wandered off to find internet - an easy way to kill a couple of hours.

I felt quite at home with the bank issue - felt more like Ecuador. However I was also quite amazed at the differences between Argentina and Bolivia when they are separated by just a few metres of river/bridge. Although Salta had had a more indigenous feel than the other places I have been to in Argentina, but this could be due the large number of Bolivians who cross the border looking for work. There were many more people in traditional dress in Villazon.

After feeding my internet addiction for a couple of hours and sitting in the plaza watching the world go by I made my way back to the bank. My friend, the guard, greeted me and told me that there would be no cash until 2pm. Doh! Maybe I had misunderstood earlier in the day. 

I sat around for a couple more hours; got food; watched more of the world going by and eventually got some cash. By then it was time to make my way to the train station.

On the train journey I tried to ignore the film being played and watch the scenery. However as I haven't really 'done' TV for over 4 years now, I inevitably got sucked into the film. After just under three hours I arrived in Tupiza where Rhian and Simon were smiling and waiting for me at the train station.

Very swiftly two bottles of wine and many stories were shared. Well, if I'm honest, mostly me talking about men. As my biggest sis said many years ago, "Oh Fi, you and men!"

Today's big news...

Pigeons shagging on the roof of a bus in Tilcara.

Now in La Quiaca and really looking forward to catching up with Rhian and Simon in Tupiza tomorrow evening!