Hoi An Adventures - chapter 1

Half term arrived yesterday after a very productive paperwork day at school. With primary reports completed and most of the planning for the first week back finished. I left school feeling excited about my first real Vietnamese adventure.

Last night I flew to Da Nang, where I was met by a driver from my hotel and taken to Hoi An.

When I arrived I wasn't immediately pleased with my hotel room as there were centipedes in the bath; the air con is temperamental and I also wanted it all to be perfect. Today I've decided that it has a faded charm; the bed is comfy and the staff very friendly. I've also thought (and not for the first time) that I must stop comparing the prices of hotels to what I could get in Ecuador.

Today has been a crazy mad day! I've wandered round the streets taking pictures and been enticed into many shops. Hoi An's streets are crammed with tailors and shoe makers. Fi heaven - shops and photography!

I decided to take a wander round the fabric market, and was followed by a beautifully dressed older Vietnamese lady asking me if I'd like a manicure or pedicure? the price quoted was amazingly cheap so I accepted, but only after I'd finished looking around. Every stall holder wanted me to look at their materials and buy clothes from them! Another lady invited me to her shoe shop and I have to admit that here I got quite carried away and ended up ordering 4 pairs of shoes, which will apparently be ready tomorrow - amazing!

Whilst chatting and laughing with Ms Thanh, Madame Mai (my manicurist) waited nearby, she also joined in with our jokes and smiles. Miss Thinh also waited, hoping I'd buy some clothes from her!

Madame Mai whisked me away to her stall in the Market as soon as she could. Before I knew it not only was I getting a pedicure, but my eyebrows were being threaded, followed by my legs and parts of myself I don't consider very hairy were being examined critically by Mme Mai's discerning eye!

A team of four women worked to make me 'beautiful', assuring me that there is no gain without pain and that I would now find many boyfriends. I really liked all these women, with their humour! Because I liked them and was enjoying the attention, I kept agreeing to more things. Naively I didn't ask a price as I went along, so the final bill was a bit of a shock. Yet I did have a marvellous time. Also, hilariously, a couple of the women had a quick feel of my boobs - I laughed a lot!

Miss Thinh kept coming back to make sure I was coming to her stall afterwards. I couldn't refuse.

Back in the fabric market I waded through many catalogues and picked out some items that I liked, this took ages. I was getting increasingly more tired and wanting to escape! When it came to choosing fabrics I only found a few that I liked. I was getting increasingly more worried about committing to some clothes after already spending quite a bit on shoes and pampering. Also at the back of my mind was the fact that I hadn't followed any of the guidance given by friends or guidebooks about which tailor to go to. I finallly agreed on a pair of trousers with matching waistcoat and a silk dress. I have a fitting tomorrow, so will find out if I chose well then I guess.

After all the excitement I was exhausted so had some food and came back to the hotel to chill.

Poking me will not encourage me to buy clothes from you...

Neither will handing me an XXL and telling me it's my size!

Personal space is an interesting issue here, especially when in markets. Today I ventured to Saigon Square, a sort of indoor clothes and accessories market with the other Fiona. I found I really didn't like people poking and prodding me as I tried a few tops on...I asked one lady to stop and she didn't take the hint at first, so I politely repeated, "Please stop touching me."

Another example of lack of personal space was when I was buying fruit and veg in a local supermarket. You have to have all items weighed and Vietnamese ladies were literally pushing me out of the way so they could have theirs weighed first!

Solutions to the problem:

1. Buy fruit and veg from Organikvn, an online shop. Then a nice man delivers fab veg to your door, no poking required.
2. Buy clothes in more expensive places where I am a medium and again was not poked.
3. Have clothes custom made. Take things you already own to be copied, therefore no poking or measuring required.

7 weeks in...

Life continues to have ups and downs, luckily this week has been better than the one before. 

I hit the extreme exhaustion wall last week and was being very sensitive to other people's words and actions. It didn't help that I was running a few mins late on the Thursday morning and the bus didn't wait for me. Luckily through all this the kids were great and it reminded me of the fact that I do what I do because of them!

Last weekend I went on a major shopping and pampering spree - this cheered me up no end! I also went out on Friday and Saturday night with people from work which was really good fun.

This week I've still been knackered but have gone through the tearfulness to bizarre sense of humour land (phew!). I also gave myself a pep talk and decided I must stop being such a sensitive little flower.

Today I've hopefully found my tame tailor and will have two new pairs of trousers and a top in 10 days time!

First adventure away from Ho Chi Minh City

Two weekends ago I had my first trip away. A small group of us escaped from school on Friday afternoon and headed to catch the hovercraft to Vung Tau, From there the plan was to continue to Long Hai, where we'd booked accommodation. We arrived in darkness to what looked like a fairly swanky hotel. We decided we'd like rooms by the beach and this was when it all started to turn a little strange. We were transported on a large golf buggy type thing down a very dark road and then had to wait ages for someone to come and open the gate. One of the crew started to look at the geckos and she almost fell off the buggy as it started to move as she was getting back on. Everything was in darkness. We stopped outside some villas and went to inspect the rooms - we were not impressed. We asked to be taken back to the main hotel to look at some rooms there and still were not impressed. I couldn't help but compare them to Ecuador where I stayed in beautiful places for around $15. This place expected us to pay $60 a night for a room that was even close to the standard I knew from Ecuador. We tried to reason with the receptionist to drop the price, but she was unable to help us. We ordered some cold beers and a taxi and waited to head back to Vung Tau - the taxi took forever.

Luckily we were all fairly chilled about it...I did go rather quiet but that was because I was needing food.

Vung Tau has a fairly seedy reputation - it is where Gary Glitter was caught! We eventually got to the Sammy Hotel and asked to see the rooms before deciding whether to stay. The boys sat down to wait whilst us girlies went to inspect. We got out of the lift to a floor in total darkness - there were a few comments about the fact we seemed to have found ourselves in an episode of Fawlty Towers! We looked down a dark corridor and saw electric cables hanging down and very obvious signs of work...oh dear we thought! We were extremely relieved when we were then shown rooms on the floor below which were very nice - hurray!

We checked in and headed out to find food as by now it was nearly 10.00pm. Luckily there was a beach bar across the road who said they could order us pizzas, I proceeded to order a rum and coke.

Most of the next day was spent chilling on the beach and swimming in the beautifully warm sea - splendid. We had ice creams to make it feel even more like a holiday. 

In the afternoon, Fiona (yes there is more than one Fiona here - weird!) and I went to have a massage back at the hotel. This was another strange experience. We had to pay up front which I've never experienced before and were then shown to a room. We sat and waited. A lady came in and gave me two towels and indicated that we were to strip off. I've also never had a massage where the lady is in the room while you disrobe. The massage began, with no oil. It was also quite disconcerting that the two ladies kept giggling and chatting. I could recognise some of the techniques being used but found it all very strange - with hindsight we should have stopped them and asked for our money back. At the end my lady very rudely asked for a tip - again after not leaving the room while we got dressed. I refused and we scarpered as quickly as poss discussing how weird it had all been!

In the evening we had delicious local food on the beach and went back to drink more cocktails at the beach bar. I hadn't expected a late one, but before we knew it it was 3am and I was dozing off on the sofa!

I loved the beach at night, it really came to life with street food sellers, bonfires, joss sticks burning - it was fascinating and was one of those 'I'm in a different country' moments.

The next day I was fairly fragile and we did very little until it was time to get the boat back to Ho Chi Minh. Unfortunately my ticket for the boat had got wet and was falling apart - they wouldn't accept it and a man was shouting at me in Vietnamese. My friend Carolyn tried to talk to him (she's been here for six years and speaks Vietnamese really well), but that made him even more angry. So I had to run in the pouring rain to get another one - fairly horrible experience.

Once on the boat we all crashed out and in less than two hours we were back in HCMC, where we got shouted at again, this time by a taxi driver. He wanted us to use his more expensive taxi and was trying to make us get out of the one we were in - again a fairly frightening experience. 

Although being shouted at in a language I don't understand was scary and intimidating, it has not put me off Vietnam. I'm looking forward to more adventures, half term is in three weeks time and I'm going to head to Hoi An.

Good Morning Vietnam!

Well to be more accurate it should say good evening, but as this is my first blog from Vietnam it seemed like an appropriate title.

I have been in Ho Chi Minh City for just over three weeks and am still very much finding my feet. I am living in District 7 which is a suburban area and relatively new. It only takes ten minutes to get to school and about twenty to get into the main city centre (depending on the time of day and amount of traffic). It's very easy here as it is ex-pat land; there are shops and restaurants near to my apartment and even a spa - which I have already visited twice as my back is in a shocking state. 

My apartment is not quite as swanky as Quito, but it's okay and will do for now. Some more comfortable furniture would be nice as I'm sure spending most of my time sat on the computer chair is not helping my back. When I arrived there was very little here other than furniture, not even loo roll. The only reason I didn't have a complete breakdown about it is because there was internet access already here.

I received a settling in allowance when I arrived which I thought I'd be able to live on till payday - unfortunately that went very quickly on things like: towels, bedding, pans, crocks, etc. Money has been quite a worry, but I have now been paid which is a blessed relief. The past year has been incredible, but I had spent all my savings by the time I arrived here.

School has been interesting for a variety of reasons. A couple of days after arriving, I found out I was the only music teacher so would be teaching every child in the school aged 2-14 and that I was also a Yr 7 form tutor. I wasn't entirely surprised about being the only music teacher but being a form tutor as well was a bit of a shock. However I really like my kids, so that's a relief. The only class I have found difficult so far is the Yr 9 group - but I think I may have approached them in the wrong way which didn't help. We'll see how it goes this week!

Being here is like being on an emotional rollercoaster - I expected that too. But knowing it's going to happen still doesn't really prepare you for the reality of it. Some days are so amazing I could burst, whereas other days I would just like to curl up into a ball and cry. I'm exhausted too which doesn't help. Again I expected this from my experience of moving to Ecuador, but having not worked for just over a year I haven't felt the kind of exhaustion related to work for a very long time. 

When I haven't been at school I've been getting to know District 1 a little - this is the city centre and seems to be a pretty cool area. There are 14 districts in Ho Chi Minh - so a lot to get to know! I was very happy yesterday when I found The Body Shop and could buy some of my favourite perfume.

I'm missing family and friends greatly at the moment, but know this will get easier over time and as I meet more people here.

Words from a different life...

Written in December 2006

I'm standing on the edge of an uncertain path,

Feeling as if I could fall backwards,

Knowing that the only way is forwards,

Facing doubts and fears,
Shedding so many tears.

I wonder about possibilities,

Try to keep my positivity,

I look to the future wondering what it holds?

Terrified of being left alone and cold.

I made my decisions,

Found the strength to leave,

Have this feeling that suddenly I'm free,

Or am I just behaving stubbornly?

I keep myself busy fearing that if I stop,

I may not be able to cope with the drop,

I fear the chasm that opens ahead,

Yet I also feel excited, so alive, not dead.

I talk to friends who offer their advice,

Keep going forwards, don't think twice,

Keep on growing and blossoming and flowering,

You will find this all empowering.

Yet I am standing on the edge of an uncertain path,

Finding the strength to keep from falling backwards,

Knowing that the only way is forwards,

Facing doubts and fears,

Smiling through the tears,

Understanding at last,

That the past is the past,

And that sometimes...

The journey is the destination.

Last two weeks in Latin America

In my last two weeks in Latin America I was happy to know I would be with friends.

Firstly I stayed in Huanchaco with Ursula - lovely Irish friend who I first met in Quito, she's been travelling around Peru for the last 18 months or so. When I arrived I was still feeling pretty rubbish from the cold/flu type thing I had going on - it was such a relief to finally have a room to myself where I could actually allow myself to be ill and rest.

Huanchaco was lovely, very peaceful and chilled. It was the end of the season so the town was quiet which was a lovely contrast after the hecticness of Cusco and Lima. My days were spent eating delicious food cooked by Ursula; walking dogs belonging to one of her friend's; sleeping; trying out a few of the local restaurants; reading - it was definitely a well needed rest.

I also got to hang out with the lovely Ilana and James who I originally met in Rio. Unfortunately they weren't completely well either, but it was lovely to see them again!

I had no real urge to do anything - after months of being in many different places, thinking about and doing many different things it was nice to stop. I also knew that once home, life would become manic again. I also finally allowed myself to really start thinking about Vietnam - getting much more excited about that adventure!

After Huanchaco I went to Costa Rica to spend a week with my friend Yvette in San Jose. I was looking forward to spending some time exploring with Yvette over the weekend. Unfortunately though I was ill again - this time stomach related. It began in Lima airport - not fun. I was also mightily pissed off by the air hostess who ignored me after landing in San Jose when I tried to explain how imperative it was for me to be allowed into the locked toilet - luckily I then noticed the other one was unlocked.

Staying with Yvette was also lovely, but unfortunately I didn't really start feeling well again till the Saturday (having arrived there on Wednesday, 25th May). So the trip we'd hoped to take into a national park on the beach didn't happen. However, every cloud has a silver lining, because of this we spent Saturday afternoon in the central area of San Jose where I managed to buy some pressies. We also heard a fantastic band playing in one of the parks and found out that they were playing again in a jazz club the following Monday. 

On Sunday when Yvette got up and came down I was actually able to give her the thumbs up that I felt well. We went to explore a fairly local farmer's market - the fruit and veg were amazing. My personal moment from there though was a father and son duo playing what I think was a marimba - it was lovely. Afterwards we went to an art cafe where we had a second breakfast!! We were in fact amazed that we were back at Yvette's having been out and about before the time we'd actually left the house the day previously! I even felt well enough to cook curry for Yvette and a couple of her school friends - it went down a treat! The last of my curry spices were gone - this was when I knew it was definitely almost time for home (plus the fact that I hadn't cooked for ages, I certainly didn't expect to still have some in the last week of my travels).

On Monday 30th May we went out dancing and oh how we danced! The band we had seen in the park certainly lived up to expectations. The club was packed - amazing for a Monday night. Furthermore, almost as soon as the support band (who were damn good too) had finished the dance floor was packed in readiness for Sonambulo Psichotropical! They were brilliant. I realised whilst dancing that one of the things I would definitely miss on leaving Latin America was the higher proportion of men who can dance. I love to dance with a partner and have met a couple of good dancers in my travels which has been so much fun! In Vietnam I will need to find places for dancing as I thrive on it!

I arrived home to the beautiful English countryside on the 2nd of June, after an incredibly long journey that included a brief stop in Iceland! Mum and Dad were both waiting for me and I was looking forward to some time at home.

Lima & Lurgy!

Leaving Cusco made me very aware that although I usually meet good people, I cannot rely on them to look out for me in the same way that friends from home would. I decided Cusco had been a lesson in remembering to take care and look out for myself.

On the twenty hour bus to Lima I also became aware that I was becoming pretty sick. Blocked sinuses are really not good to have at altitude. However being on a bus for that length of time does force you to rest which I certainly needed.

Arriving in Lima I made my way to the Kokopelli hostel in Miraflores, where my friends Joanne and Matt were also staying. They had left messages that they were on a tour and I chilled until they got back.

The next few days were lovely (apart from the horrible lurgy which meant that every time I sneezed or coughed, I followed it with 'ow'. Much to Matt's amusement!). I caught up with Vanessa, my lovely Canadian friend from earlier in the trip; ate a great vegetarian buffet in an old railway carriage with a piano player; went and saw skeletons in catacombs and ate several good meals. I really enjoyed spending some more time with Joanne and Matt - it was all very chilled, exactly what was needed after Cusco.

I do feel that I didn't really give Cusco the time it deserved, but moving on meant I had time to get to Huanchaco to meet up with Ursula (great friend from Quito who has been travelling in Peru for almost two years).

Last Tuesday I got on another night bus and made my way to Trujillo and then Huanchaco.

A note about Lima:

I was surprised that I enjoyed Lima as I had had absolutely no interest in spending time there - however as with many things, I think it has a lot to do with who your with and the company was excellent!

Cusco & Macchu Picchu

I arrived in Cusco on the 6th of May and was excited about the prospect of some partying as it had been a fairly quiet month. We were staying in The Wild Rover which has quite a reputation. On our first night we put it to the test...

There was glitter; dancing on the bar; nurses hats; random banter; pints of rum and coke; lots of smiling and laughing...and rather a lot of missing memory. I remember buzzing around the bar talking to many different people - Rhian confirmed this and the great big grin on my face...I'm just not sure how I ended up in the right dorm but the wrong bed. The only reason I found out was because the correct owner of the bunk arrived back at 7am..at first I denied everything, but it quickly became apparent that she was right and I was indeed in her bed. I quickly apologised and snuck into my own for a few more hours kip. Luckily Rhian also had some significant gaps so that made me feel considerably better.

Saturday was a fairly non day apart from a massage in the afternoon - one of my favourite hangover cures. Although I did get a little concerned whilst waiting for my massage when an American gent was being fairly vocal about how much he was enjoying his massage - had I stumbled into a den of ill repute? Luckily no, he was just a twat! Hahahahahaha!

On Sunday there was a big 'Killer' pool tournament - I declined entry, but did get chatting to a lovely couple called Joanne and Matt. We were having a splendid time and being marginally foolish. Matt won the tournament and therefore we had to dance on the bar to celebrate! After that we decided the casino was also a marvellous plan..Joanne declined, but Matt and I were all for it. (I've never been into a casino in my life, and still haven't as we were declined entry because we were too drunk - even after I tried to explain in my best Spanish!!).

"Where now?" I enquired.

"To Mama Afrika's," replied Matt.

After that it all becomes a bit blurry again...I know there was dancing though, lots of dancing. And Matt wearing my hat.

Monday was a strange day...I really wasn't happy about two nights with so much missing memory. I was also feeling kind of down as I knew I would be going in a separate direction from Rhian and Simon the next day. It was a vulnerable and fragile day, for different reasons. I decided an early night was the best plan of attack as I was heading to Aguas Calientes the next day and would be hitting Macchu Picchu on Wednesday. 

Unfortunately an early night was impossible with the noise from the bar; the noise from two of my room mates who kept coming in and out of the room in various stages of intoxication and the noise from my brain over thinking.

The journey to Ollyantambo was spent mostly asleep; as was the train trip to Aguas Calientes to be honest. The train runs through a beautiful valley, but I just couldn't keep my eyes open. 

On arrival in Aguas Calientes we were met by a guy from our hostel (there were a few of us who had taken the trip from Cusco). After being shown my room I went wandering and later bumped into the others and spent some more time wandering with them. 

We were met by a guide later that night in the hostel and advised to get up and leave the hostel by 3am in order to get on the first bus to Macchu Picchu - this would mean we would be able to be one of the four hundred who are able to get tickets to climb Huayna Picchu. However, our hostel told us they would get breakfast ready for 3am - this seemed reasonable (as reasonable as getting up at that hour in the morning can be!). By this point it was about 8pm and I retired, once more hoping for an early night...

But, no...across the street from my room they were refurbishing a shop - this went on all night. I finally got to sleep after midnight and only slept for two to three hours. Regardless of this fact, I was still one of the first to breakfast. 

The two hour wait at the bus station for the first bus at 5.30am was tedious and I got a very numb bum. Sleeping for about twenty minutes on the actual bus did not make up for it. We arrived at about 6am...our guide wasn't due until 7.45am. The others went off wandering around the site but I didn't want to do that as I knew I'd pay no attention to the guide if I'd already looked around - I know what I'm like. 

I spotted some folks I recognised from Friday night - they confirmed that I had been highly entertaining...when they went on their way I found a quiet spot and waited for the sun. It was perfect, I watched the sun coming over the mountain tops and slowly lighting up the whole site. Just beautiful!

I had this lovely spot to myself for some time - until tour groups started arriving with guides pointing out the incredible view. I was glad to have had my own tranquil meditation with Macchu Picchu.

The guided tour was much as I expected, at times interesting and at times a little dull. The site is incredible though and it was definitely worth going. Unfortunately though, my fear of heights kicked in a couple of times walking around, so I decided there was no way I would cope with the climb up Huayna Picchu - just looking at it made me feel sick!

Lack of sleep sometimes made it difficult to pay attention and at one point I almost fell asleep on my feet! Snacks purchased in Aguas Calientes helped me to stay awake. When the tour finished, I spent some more time wandering on my own and got back to Aguas Calientes by lunchtime. The afternoon was spent mostly eating or reading 'The Motorcycle Diaries', which I found in a bookshop there.

I finally got back to Cusco at about 11pm - it probably would have been wise to go to bed. However I grabbed a shower and joined the party!

Another marvellous night ensued - one which I actually remember - hurray! More bar dancing in several different locations; cartwheels on the street; running round different streets to beat the others back to the hostel; boys play fighting; post beer burgers - I ate Matt's, oops! He forgave me though and wouldn't take any money.

Thursday - by the time I got up, Matt and some of the staff were already on the shots (and it was only midday!). The afternoon progressed into a loving jamming session - with Shaun (who I jammed with in Santiago), myself and Rowan (bar staff). It was a really lovely and chilled afternoon - perfect after a ridiculous night! Or it was, until someone said something particularly nasty to me.

The nastiness may have come from a kind of jealousy, or a nose being put out of joint, but it was unnecessary and unkind. It also made me make the decision to leave Cusco the next day and follow Matt and Joanne to Lima, I wanted to be around good people. I also decided that from Lima I would head on to Huanchaco to catch up with Ursula.

Lake Titicaca

The journey to Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca was one of the shortest for some time! We were slightly baffled at one point when we were told to leave the bus for safety reasons. However it soon became clear that we actually had to cross Lake Titicaca to reach our destination (this was via the Straits of Tiquina). It's quite mental seeing a big ol' bus being loaded onto a barge type thing and floating across the water.

We stayed at the Ecolodge just outside Copacabana. We had a lovely cabaña in the garden. The people at the hostel were very sweet and even went out to get us pizza after we'd drunk a couple of bottles of red wine. Rhian and I managed to get through a third bottle and we had a very giggly evening! However as our stay progressed, we realised that although they were very sweet, they didn't really have clue (they've only been there for about a month). For example, they made our beds but didn't empty the bins or clean the bathroom.

Copacabana was a sweet, touristy town. On our second day there we wandered around and saw various vehicles being blessed (we had arrived during one of their fiestas). I liked it because it was a place for Bolivian tourists as well as travellers. We also discovered a very naughty shop, with many lovely bags and beautiful jewellery. I actually managed to resist - shocking!

Last Tuesday we took a boat to Isla del Sol. I was quite grumpy in the morning and I think it was because of there being a feeling of unknown about the trip to the island - if I'd been on my own I don't think it would have bothered me, but as I had made the suggestion of only going for the day I think I was worried that Simon and Rhian may have been disappointed. It was a bit of a step back into the past and I didn't enjoy it - my issue though.

We trekked across the island and it was beautiful - hard at times but most definitely worth it. It also confirmed that whilst I'm happy to trek for a day, I just wouldn't enjoy a trek that was over several days. 

After this we had one last night in the hostel before heading to Puno. We were all excited about seeing the floating islands. Also Simon was much better and Rhian was improving too.

(Whilst in Copcabana, Simon and I developed quite a pringles habit!)

The bus to Puno took about three hours; the border crossing was straightforward; I was happy to be back in Peru.

At our new hostel, we were about to knock on the door when it suddenly opened and we were called 'angels' by Alfred our new host! He was brilliant and really made us all giggle - particularly me and Rhian. He was most definitely a larger than life character!!

Sadly the next day when we woke up to head to the islands, Simon was ill again, so Rhian and I set off without him. The islands were fascinating - we stopped on one and got invited into one of the women's houses - before we knew it we were being dressed in traditional costumes. The woman was quite scary and when I misunderstood something she said in Spanish, she scowled at me. There were also souvenirs to buy -it was difficult because I felt obliged to buy something but I didn't really like anything there. I settled for a small mobile in the end.

Back at the ranch, Simon was still in a bad way - I think due to the altitude. Rhian and I explored and had a nice girlie afternoon. We both hoped he'd feel better the next day as we had bought tickets to get to Cusco.

I may be a shopoholic but I will not buy anything with llamas on it!

We arrived in La Paz early on Tuesday morning, after the most horrendous bus journey I have ever had.

At first when the bus started shaking because of the bad road from Uyuni, we laughed, little did we know it would continue like that for five hours. To add insult to potential back injury, we were on the back seat of the bus and could not recline our seats. Mine was in fact so upright that it pushed my head forwards. I will admit to crying at one point as my whole body shook and I had shooting pain through my back. Rhian was in a similar state - we both admitted to the tears the next day. She offered to swap seats with me, but I told her to wait till we were half way, around 1am. Luckily at about that time the bus finally got on to a made up road (around Oruro I think) and we managed to sleep on and off till we got to La Paz.

Coming out of the bus station we were approached by a man asking if we needed a taxi- standard practise. Less standard for me, with my experience of Ecuador, was the kind policewoman who asked where we needed to go and gave us directions to our hostel which was very near by.

We spent the morning sitting around, using the wifi when it worked and waiting for our room to be ready. We got into it by about 12.30pm and almost instantly we crashed out until after 5pm. Later on we headed to The Star of India for curry - highly recommended by several people we spoke to, the guidebook and my friend Paula! We had to wait an hour for the table but all agreed the curry was worth it when it eventually arrived.

Waking on Wednesday morning, I discovered that Simon was really sick. Rhian was worried, but as he wasn't very coherent it was difficult to find out what was wrong. We decided to head out for some shopping and to get him some medication, based on what we did know.

Rhian and I had a lovely day exploring the witches market and buying lovely items of frippery. I purchased some beautiful cushion covers with lovely block colours on them and the most incredible skirt. It's designer and was on the mannequin outside the shop - unfortunately the person manning the shop was at lunch when we called the first and second times. Third time lucky (plus a little chat with the ladies opposite) meant we eventually found it open. I tried the skirt on and had to have it. (Rhian also encouraged me!) I knew it was impractical for travelling as it's made from wool and is quite heavy, this also means it's impractical for Vietnam...but it really was love at first sight! Ha!

We also saw many llama jumpered gringos walking around. I'm glad I made the pledge in Ecuador that I would not buy anything with a llama on it. Of course I did have the hat that I was given, but I managed to pass that on to Hayley!

We also pottered along to take a look at San Pedro prison. You used to be able to visit it and apparently still can but we weren't approached by anyone...I think I was quite glad about that really.

All in all it was a lovely girlie day.

Back at the hostel Simon was no better and we had a new room mate called Kate. Kate had been sick on and off for a month, including being hospitalised for parasites and salmonella. At about 2am, she left the room telling us she was going back to the hospital.

On Thursday morning, Rhian called a Dr for Simon and I headed off to see the Tiwanaku ruins. 

I have to admit that I wasn't overly impressed by the ruins. It's the only recommendation from my friend Enzo in Santiago that I have not enjoyed. I have to be honest I was pretty bored. The ruins are partly excavated; there are bits missing and some of the reconstruction has been completed with concrete. The museums were okay but we were whisked round them fairly swiftly by our guide. My only amusement/entertainment for the trip was a young Aussie lad who seems to be a bit of a Che Guevera wannabe.  He was very sweet and idealistic, stating things like he sometimes wished he was older so that he knew more things - I told him to enjoy the journey. He also struck quite a few dramatic and moody poses around the ruins - I wasn't surprised when I found out he studied music theatre, although he's considering changing to law. (Just a slight change there me thought!) Ah well he was nice enough and the day would have been even drearier without any company. Lunch was good and was probably the highlight for me.

Once home again Simon still wasn't very good, but now had a diagnosis of a parasite and many types of medication with very precise instructions of what to take when. 

Yesterday Simon was considerably better and we wandered around the witches market again, showing him all the marvellous potions, lotions and varying dried state of llama that could be bought. We stopped for lunch in El Lobo, recommended on our map and known for falafel and humus. It was delicious. Unfortunately, soon after eating, Rhian started getting stomach cramps. I had the same food though and was fine - I guess that two years in Ecuador has given me a stronger stomach.

Two weirdnesses occurred yesterday:

1. Both Rhian and I had our boob punched by a random Bolivian. I was so surprised that I didn't react, but it did hurt!
2. A Scottish guy walked into both of us, when I gave him a bit of a stare he called us 'stuck up bitches'. He looked like he had the potential to cause both of us some damage, so we swiftly ran across the road to escape. He was obviously off his head, but it really was nasty and unnecessary. We were both pretty shaken.

As Simon got better, Rhian worsened and she really hasn't been too good at all today. We did have a lovely meal tonight though, at Wagamamas. We thought it might be part of the chain back home, it wasn't, but was still very good Japanese food.

I really haven't done or seen much in La Paz, it's been so easy to hang out with Rhian and Simon that I haven't strayed far. I'm not bothered though, the bits I have seen are fairly similar to Quito. One first though was seeing a little old woman walk into the road, bend over, aim and pee. I knew the rumour that indigenous woman wore nothing under their skirts for this reason, but had never seen it in practise before.

Tomorrow we're getting a bus to Copacabana, Lake Titicaca. I'm looking forward to more beautiful scenery again.

Tupiza to Uyuni, Bolivia

On Friday the 22nd of April, we were up bright and early to head off on a four day tour which would eventually culminate at Salar de Uyuni. I knew little about the rest of the tour, apart form the blurb on the leaflet, but it sounded amazing. We knew not to expect much of the accommodation and also that there would be no hot showers until the third day. However we had thermal springs, geysers, flamingoes and coloured lagoons to look forward to!

We departed with our lovely guide, Bernardo (later named Bernie by Rhian), and a French couple who were also part of our group. On the way we picked up Augustina (our cook, later known as Angie - Rhian again!) and some coca leaves.

The first part of the journey, near Tupiza, was through stunning red rocks. This area is famous because of Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid. We picnicked in the middle of nowhere, the back of the jeep became our buffet table. Angie did us proud.

After lunch we made our way to San Antonio de Lipez, a small town, overshadowed by a mountain of the same name. We could have stayed the night. However we'd all decided it would be better to travel further on Day 1 so that there were less hours on Day 2. We crossed the altiplano, viewing snow capped mountains and arrived in San Antonio - a ghost town! It was a gold town but was abandoned because of people going mad due to the high altitude (or so Bernie told us). Or perhaps the gold ran out!

After yet more hours in the jeep we stopped at a viewpoint for a lake, hurriedly taking a few photos and then getting back in as quickly as possible as the day was wearing on and it was somewhat chilly! Or last view before darkness was of the sun setting over the mountains as we made our way to Quetena Chico. We also had to pay our entry fee to the Reserva Nacional Eduardo Avaroa (REA). Bernie got us safely to our base for the night, giggling most of the way!

The stars throughout the trip were amazing - they were so close it felt like you should be able to touch them. I have never seen the milky way as clear as it is in the altiplano of Bolivia. (Although, of course, it is pretty spectacular in Norfolk).

It was a cold night in Quetena Chico, but we still managed to get through two bottles of wine before retiring in all our clothes, sleeping bags, liner, sheets and blankets! Bernie (who was quite competitive with the other drivers) told us to be up for breakfast at 6.30am so we could be the first to leave at 7.00am. This would mean that we would get to the thermal waters first!

We left at about 7.30am - not bad by South American standards! Angie was holding us up, allegedly! The second day was just incredible - so many beautiful and amazing sites. We bathed in the hot waters of Rio Amargo; Desierto dali - mad rock formations in the desert; Laguna Verde - the waters are green because of copper deposits; geysers bubbling mud and sending out sulphuric steam.

Laguna Colorado was the last port of call and it truly was incredible. The waters are orangey red because of the plankton living in it and flamingoes feed on the plankton - making them beautifully pink! I was in absolute photographic heaven! We stayed close to the laguna and managed another couple of bottles of wine. I bought everyone in the group an early Easter present of a twix when I found them in the tiny shop! This was also, hilariously, where Rhian was trying to think of French words that we use in the UK...her last word came out just as the light was turned off in the room, "Soiree", she called. We all collapsed about in giggles and went to sleep.

Day 3 was another early start. Our first stop was in Desierto de Siloli, where there is the famous 'arbol de piedra' or 'stone tree'. It was yet another amazing landscape. We took our photos and continued on to more beautiful lakes reflecting snow capped mountains and volcanoes. We also drove through the valley of rocks and stopped for another picnic lunch just beyond it. It was so picturesque it was almost untrue!

We arrived in Uyuni, got the hot showers we'd been promised and then checked out the Cemeterio de Tren - train cemetery. The contrast of rusty train and blue sky was beautiful.

Day 4, we left Uyuni just before 6am so we could see the sunrise on Salar de Uyuni - it was most definitely worth it, the colours were amazing. We breakfasted in a salt hotel - Augustina made us pancakes for our last breakfast! We then traversed the salt flat to take the obligatory foolish photos. Bernie was a master of what was possible!

Finally back to Uyuni for our last lunch made by Augustina and then an eight hour wait for the bus to La Paz.

Uyuni was not the most exciting of places and we were glad to be heading on to La Paz. We lurked; used the internet; chatted to a fellow traveller and generally got quite bored!

To see photos of my travels, check out my flickrstream!

Arrival in Bolivia!

Last Wednesday I left my hostel in La Quiaca fairly early as check out was at 10am. This was after a very quiet night watching a film on my laptop and being slightly too nervous to go out and find food. I've been eating so well recently that I decided one missed meal wouldn't hurt!

I walked across the border bridge to Villazon, with no problems, and on arriving in Bolivia discovered it was an hour earlier (even though the bridge is probably about ten metres in length from one country to the next!). This meant I had 6 or so hours to wait before I got on the train to Tupiza, where Rhian and Simon would be waiting for me. What to do thought I??

My first mission was to change my Argentinian Pesos for Bolivianos – very simple there are money exchanges as soon as you cross the bridge. I know it wasn't the best rate of exchange but at least I had some local currency.

My second mission was to find a bank machine – my guide book had reliably informed me that there is one in Villazon, so I set out to look for it. I asked a few people for directions and was pleased to find the plaza and the bank machine - or so I thought. Unfortunately the machine didn't recognise any of my cards - shit! I returned to the plaza and consulted my travel bible...phew, I went to the wrong bank. I made my way to the other bank and was told by the security guard that there wouldn't be any cash for a couple of hours. Of course this didn't matter as I had plenty of time. I wandered off to find internet - an easy way to kill a couple of hours.

I felt quite at home with the bank issue - felt more like Ecuador. However I was also quite amazed at the differences between Argentina and Bolivia when they are separated by just a few metres of river/bridge. Although Salta had had a more indigenous feel than the other places I have been to in Argentina, but this could be due the large number of Bolivians who cross the border looking for work. There were many more people in traditional dress in Villazon.

After feeding my internet addiction for a couple of hours and sitting in the plaza watching the world go by I made my way back to the bank. My friend, the guard, greeted me and told me that there would be no cash until 2pm. Doh! Maybe I had misunderstood earlier in the day. 

I sat around for a couple more hours; got food; watched more of the world going by and eventually got some cash. By then it was time to make my way to the train station.

On the train journey I tried to ignore the film being played and watch the scenery. However as I haven't really 'done' TV for over 4 years now, I inevitably got sucked into the film. After just under three hours I arrived in Tupiza where Rhian and Simon were smiling and waiting for me at the train station.

Very swiftly two bottles of wine and many stories were shared. Well, if I'm honest, mostly me talking about men. As my biggest sis said many years ago, "Oh Fi, you and men!"

Today's big news...

Pigeons shagging on the roof of a bus in Tilcara.

Now in La Quiaca and really looking forward to catching up with Rhian and Simon in Tupiza tomorrow evening!

Losses & Gains

Losses:

• 1 dress (left behind in Santiago)
• 2/3 pairs of socks (eaten by laundries)
• Rizla and filters (left behind in Rio)
• Boots (after being repaired in Quito, they were coming apart again by the time I got to Bariloche...time for new ones.)
• 1 pair of leggings (died)
• Brain cells

Gains:

• 2 new dresses, one as a pressie to me from Ecuador and one to replace the lost one (Quito & Santiago)
• 3 new pairs of stripy socks (Salta)
• 1 pair of new boots (Bariloche)
• Funky top from secondhand shop (Santiago)
• 1 pair of earrings (Cajamarca)
• 1 book of photos taken by children in a favela (Rio)
• 1 pair of black cords (Puerto Natales - getting bored of my jeans all the time) 
• 1 pair of leggings (Puerto Natales)
• 1 new jacket (Puerto Natales - necessary to keep warm in Patagonia)

Conclusion:

• Must stop buying myself presents

Moving on...

Currently sitting in Buenos Aires airport waiting for a flight to Salta. I have a little time between flights and am pondering. It struck me on the flight that I will soon be leaving Argentina after leaving Chile just a few days ago and whilst I'm excited about getting to Bolivia, I'm sad to be leaving this part of South America. Actually I'm really very sad about the thought that in just under six weeks I will be saying goodbye to South America and not knowing when or if I will return. I don't actually want to leave, I love it here. This thought is softened with the knowledge that I will have a week with Yvette on the way home, who will be the perfect person to help with the transition. I know that excitement and adventure awaits in Vietnam...but it is always hard to say goodbye to things that you love.

The last few days in Bariloche have been very relaxing which is what I needed. I discovered that one of my arms was fairly covered in bites on Tuesday and think it was bed bugs at the refugio. I felt quite ill whilst on the bus from Puerto Montt to Bariloche* with glands up in my neck and face which I think was my body fighting against all the bites. 

I have actually stopped and listened to my body and the fact it needed to stop. I've slept well; had a massage; bit of retail therapy; short walks around Bariloche. I felt like I should be doing/seeing more but realise that my three weeks in Chile were very full on in very different ways and it was good to take some time out before another burst of travelling.

On Thursday morning, I discovered a young lad from Norwich was also staying in the hostel. Last night we were joined by Wymondham, Cambridge and Chicago. We had a great giggle and enjoyed more red wine. Amazingly I wasn't hung over this morning either!

It's quite strange moving on all the time, sometimes it feels great and sometimes not. Ho hum, think I'm a little tired and emotional this evening.

*I made it to the Bariloche bus with about five minutes to spare. I was so glad because I didn't really want to spend another night in Chile, my brain had already moved on. The taxi man from the airport was wonderful; called the bus company to check times and whizzed me as fast as possible to the bus terminal.

Last 24 hours in Puerto Natales

Returning to the hostel was not great. I really didn't want to stay there, but Louis and Gavin were with me and I didn't want to have to explain why not to them. I also needed a hot shower and to relax.

I was sad to find that Carlos had left for Peru, but not entirely surprised.

Louis was my saviour. We cracked each other up with our mutually stupid sense of humour and decided to go and buy beer and pizza to see us through the evening. We then had a rather raucous jamming session, punctuated by much laughing. When Gavin later asked us if we were having a jam, I replied no, we're having a foolish!

Annoyingly when the hostel got locked up at 11pm we had forgotten to retrieve our remaining beers from the fridge. We retired upstairs and talked more shit until Gavin got home, then we quizzed him - hahahhaha!

My last day in Puerto Natales started at a fairly leisurely rate. Got up; had breakfast; packed my rucksack; took my washing to the laundry; returned the hiking boots I'd hired.

Later, Louis and I made one last visit to El Living where I had an awesome curry. We got chatting to Jeremy (the owner) about music and before long I was trotting back across the plaza to fetch my laptop for another music exchange. We wiled away a very pleasant few hours in the pursuit of music. Louis also gave me tunes from his ipod.

Back at the ranch we finished off our beers and continued to be fairly raucous. I was genuinely enjoying myself but admittedly it was good to be feeling like that in front of 'Jonny'. Showing that his behaviour towards me hadn't dented me (honestly? Of course it's dented my ego, but I'll get over it).

Around 7.30pm I said goodbye to the lovely Louis and made my way to the bus and a night sleeping in Punta Arenas airport.

I was sad to be leaving the great friends I'd met, but knew without a doubt it was time to move on again.

Dotty & Marge* go trekking!

 

Sunday 10th April, Hayley and I struggled out of our bunk beds just before 7am. There was lots of groaning - mostly from me! I was warm and snuggly and my body was resisting the idea of a two day trek.

We drank several coffees and ate lots of toast which we felt was preparing us well for our adventure. The bus arrived just before 8am and we set off...and promptly fell asleep again on the bus.

The journey to Torres del Paine takes about two hours from Puerto Natales and then once in the park we had to buy our tickets and continue on to Lago Pehoe to catch a catamaran. We arrived at Lago Pehoe at about 11am (ish) and had to wait till nearly 12pm for the catamaran.

Once on board we got chatting to Chilean brothers, we also almost overdosed on the free biscuits!

I really was quite nervous about trekking on unknown terrain. It's not like I haven't done any walking since Gold D of E, just the thought of staying overnight that freaked me I think. In Ecuador I liked the idea of seeing the top of volcanoes but also knew that I was very unfit for the altitude. I don't want to be the person at the back of the group who is upset and not enjoying themselves and making it worse for everyone else.

We set off just before 1pm and at first I was fairly chipper. We chatted, laughed, swore about 'Jonny', etc.  I got a few pics which always makes me happy. However as the afternoon wore on, the weather was pretty shitty, misty and rainy. Again this did make for some interesting pics and I also gave Hayley some photography lessons. She has a D40 too and has had it set on auto for over a year - tsk, tsk! It was a happy moment when she stated, "Wow, this is much better than the auto!"

Annoyingly as the afternoon wore on, my knee started to ache more and more. I've had trouble with my knee since living in Ecuador, it's fairly common in my family so I just put up with it and carry on. Also it's worse when I'm a bit heavier and I certainly put on a little weight in both Argentina and Chile. Looking forward to getting back to altitude soon and it naturally falling off again!

I was really enjoying Hayley's company, but the afternoon was becoming a bit of a slog. It probably didn't help that we were comparing the scenery to the UK and not being wowed by it. This changed when we caught our first sight of Glacier Grey. There it was, all blue and mysterious behind a veil of mist. Suddenly I had the wow factor I'd been needing!

We kept going until we reached Refugio Grey at about 5pm ish. We'd walked for just over four hours and only 11km. It felt like so much more though and I was exhausted. Tea and nibbles soon followed.

Later I ordered dinner and bless the lovely folks at the refugio, they gave us two dinners for the price of one.

We struggled to stay up till 9pm and then both retired to bed. It felt daft to be going to bed so early, but realistically I'd had one good night's sleep in the past four nights, so not entirely surprising.

Next morning, again neither of us were keen to crawl from our warm and snuggly beds, we got up by 7am. Coffee was most necessary and I wasn't exactly overjoyed to be photographed by a lovely Chilean man and his daughter. I don't like to communicate too early, let alone have my photo taken. However they did balance out this mean behaviour with the provision of sandwiches for us.

We set off just after 8am. We needed to move faster down the route than we had the day previously as I had to catch the catamaran back across Lago Pehoe at 12.30pm. The weather was considerably improved - sunny and windy. We were walking as the sun came up and my love for beautiful light and 'catching' an image took over. At times I was almost running to find a viewpoint for both the glacier behind me and the view ahead. I'd also taken ibuprofen to help my knee and it was much nicer to take each step without feeling any pain.

Again we talked easily about life, the universe and some of our biggest demons. I truly felt a strong connection with this lovely lass and knew I would be sad to leave her at lunchtime.

Amazingly, the walk that had taken us more than four hours the day before took just over three this time. We arrived at Lago Pehoe with plenty of time to spare for a rest and a cuppa before I left.

I actually really enjoyed it and was quite amazed to find myself wishing I was doing the whole 'W'. Yet I also knew I would not have wanted to carry more than I had, as I cooled down from the walk my back decided to make itself known, alongside my knee. It's a bugger getting older, most of the time I ignore it, but sometimes the aches and pains make you have to accept that it is happening.

I waved goodbye to Hayley and hello again to my young German friend Louis.

* Dotty and Marjorie are mine and Hayley's alter egos, I am of course Dotty!

Puerto Natales & Perito Moreno

I arrived in Puerto Natales, Patagonia, late last Tuesday night (5th April). I had planned to spend the night in Punta Arenas but happened to be sat next to an English guy on the plane who was heading to Puerto Natales too - we decided we'd both feel braver if we tackled it together. I even used my best Spanish to ring and find out if there was a bus from the airport (all the taxi drivers were telling me there wasn't, but have learned not to trust all taxi drivers.)

My new friend Gavin and I made it to the bus by the skin of our teeth as it didn't look like it was going to wait and he'd chosen that moment to go for a wander! Luckily for me, Gavin had done a little research and found a hostel to stay in. Luckily for him, I had enough Spanish to charm the bus conductor type chappy into dropping us off one block away from the Plaza de Armas!

Walking into the hostel, much to my delight, I discovered that the guy who runs it looks very much like Jonny Depp. I have had a love for Jonny for many years, so to find his doppelgänger in Patagonia was most exciting (although admittedly this version was much shorter than I imagined Jonny to be. I mean obviously he must be taller than me, not the same height!)

Later on I also discovered that 'Jonny' was a very fine guitarist - heaven, thought I. 

I was liking Puerto Natales already and even more so once Gavin and I had visited the fine vegetarian restaurant El Living, situated just across the plaza from the hostel. My vegetarianism has been quite lax of recent, well, when in Argentina, etc, etc. However I do still love to eat good veggy food whenever the opportunity arises!

Next day (Wednesday), I helped Gavin to assemble what he needed for a 5 day trek in Torres del Paine National Park. He'd hoped I would be persuaded to join him, but the scars from Gold Duke of Edinburgh Award still go deep and I wasn't up for 5 days carrying lots of stuff. However the knowledge from that made me a very useful person to help him get organised. Apparently he's done lots of trekking, although this really didn't seem that obvious. I think he just needed someone to give him a bit of guidance and reassurance! We also went to a free talk given by Erratic Rock - here Gavin found more people to trek with. 

The highlights of my day were clean clothes; more yummy vegetarian food and deciding to go to Perito Moreno the following day and on a boat trip on Friday to see more glaciers closer to home.

That night, 'Jonny' asked me if I would sing and quite a jamming session ensued. It was lots of fun! We were joined by a lovely German lad called Louis who was a pretty mean guitarist too. I did the usual and even if I didn't know the song, found the words and busked along! At time I felt that 'Jonny' was serenading me...turned out later I was right!

Thursday, I was up before dawn to get my bus to Perito Moreno. It was quite a crazy day with most of it spent on a bus and only about 3 hours not on a bus - but it was most definitely worth it. The Perito Moreno glacier is amazing. I was wowed from my first glimpse. Incredibly it has a land area the same size as Buenos Aires! It was also bloody freezing and I made people chuckle on the boat ride as I jigged about to keep warm. 

Returning to Puerto Natales it felt like I was heading home. I was looking forward to the warmth and cosiness of the hostel and of course to seeing 'Jonny' again. On arrival I discovered the lovely Hayley - an awesome girlie! We chatted and laughed with 'Jonny' and his friend Carlos. Another great night. The boys were heading off climbing the next day and invited us both to join them. However I had already booked a boat trip to see the Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers the next day so sadly declined.

Friday I was up before dawn again to head off on my boat trip. I was a little concerned as outside the hostel it seemed to be blowing a gale. I wondered if the trip would be cancelled, but all seemed in order when I arrived at the office.

On the boat I made friends with three Indians who now live in the states. They have been friends for a long time and made for great company. Also one of the lovely ladies had travel sick pills which were most necessary! As the waves outside got bigger and the boat swayed more, the crew decided to turn back. This was an hour and a half into the trip and whilst I was happy in some ways I was also a bit annoyed they hadn't decided earlier as it would have meant I was able to go on the climbing trip. The saving grace was Indy, who was hilarious and very interested in my trip to Vietnam. Turns out he's planning a trip there. I gave him my email address before I departed so he could get in touch about Vietnam.*

Back in Puerto Natales I crashed out for a major siesta - very necessary after two early mornings and two very late nights.

That night, 'Jonny' had a gig to play, but assured us he'd be back by 11pm and then we could all go out dancing. Hayley, Carlos and I chilled at the hostel. We had a big music exchange which was brilliant. I have even more tunes now and love everything I was given! I really enjoy sharing music with people. I think I'm pretty good at seeing what people have and being able to give them music that they will love. I pretty much have music to suit everybody as I'm now travelling with about 55gb worth!

When we finally went out at about 11.30pm Hayley instigated a drinking game which involved choosing a drink for the person on your left! I hate this kind of thing as I'm quite bad at making decisions when put on the spot. I was also concerned about what Carlos would choose for me. I did well and was given pisco and ginger ale. The pisco was very strong, but the ginger ale made it good. Do love a bit of ginger! Turned out it was one of Carlos' fave drinks - handy info for the next round when we had to choose for the person on the right! 'Jonny' chose a vodka and orange for me - not impressed, dislike both the ingredients on that drink. Somehow I managed to drink it and then demanded to go dancing. I may have been a little feisty and insistent, but I knew the only way to cope with the alcohol content was to dance it off! 

We headed to another bar, where we all had a soft drink and finally ended at a disco. 'Jonny' instantly started to dance with Hayley which bothered me briefly. However I danced with Carlos who is a great dancer and we also made each other laugh loads! Y'know how I pull foolish faces about things, well he does the same thing.

Later, I noticed Hayley and 'Jonny' kissing, they then left together. I was pretty gutted and would have been more so without the lovely company of Carlos. I was also shocked that I'd been so taken in by someone ('Jonny' that is). However there was a happy outcome, Carlos and I stayed up all night talking and laughing and hopefully I will be seeing him again in Peru. I really like him.

Saturday was a fairly weird and horrible day. I didn't want to go back to the hostel but knew I had to at some point. Hayley wasn't there when I got back but she soon returned and we talked loads. She's great and we decided to take off into Torres del Paine the next day. I would stay over night and she would continue to complete the 'w' trek.

I said goodbye to Carlos that night as he would be leaving for Peru whilst I was in the park. Fingers crossed I will see him again - will keep you informed!

*Indy and I have been emailing each other on and off for a few days and it's great. He writes very funny emails and crazily we share the same birthday!

Pichilemu

To begin where I finished, the party was great.

At said party I met a guy, later that night the guy said, "Come to the beach with me."

"Okay," I replied, "why not?!"

So, the next day we set off to Rancagua to meet the guy's friend and because it was in the right direction for Pichilemu. This was of course quite a change to my plan, but the guy seemed like fun and it's always good to be open to changes of plan.

Rancagua is in the area that was most affected by the earthquake a year ago and the signs are still very apparent in the buildings and area.

We spent the night there where we enjoyed the great Chilean tradition of a barbecue and then the next day we all drove to Pichilemu. Juan, the guy's friend was really sweet and kept insisting that they spoke in English so that I could understand. Chilean Spanish is soo difficult!

The boys wanted to surf - I considered it as Juan hadn't surfed before either, therefore I wouldn't be the only newbie. However I decided against when I saw the waves and felt how cold the water was. I amused myself taking photos and running through songs in my head. Also sitting in the car and staying nice and warm!

When the boys returned they asked how long they'd been gone - no idea I told them and explained I was perfectly capable of keeping myself amused.

That night we sampled some Chilean Pisco and retired fairly early.

Saturday was much the same apart from me being even more prepared to entertain myself and not become a 'surf widow'. I made sure my laptop was fully charged; listened to music and worked on the website that I have been playing with for sometime. Afraid it's not ready yet as I keep changing my mind - but it's a good activity to have on the back burner!

In the evening we ended up at the local disco. Juan settled for an early night, but we danced till 3am.

It was a great weekend and Juan kindly drove us back to Santiago in Sunday night. I really enjoyed the company of both of them. Spending the weekend with the guy would probably have been much harder without Juan, his kindness, and his willingness to speak English.

It was fun to spend a few days with a guy, it's been a while since I've allowed anyone of the male variety to have so much of my time. However after the few days we spent together I knew he would not necessarily be a great person to spend lots of time with. Luckily I can now spot the men who whilst they love the person I am, will try to chip at my confidence and that personality. I'm not going prepared to return to my past. Somewhere out there will be the guy who is pleased with me as I am. Plus this guy was a little too Latino - whilst I'm happy to cook, don't expect me to clean up afterwards. I think I put it fairly succinctly when I told him I will do whatever I want and he needed to learn that quickly!

So a great time, but not enough to make me change my plan to fly from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas on the Tuesday!

A note about Pichilemu:

A great town for surfing, in many ways it reminded me of Cornwall, particularly when we sat on the headland at sunset watching the surfers. Would recommend it to anyone who is into that surf lifestyle. Personally I think it would not have held my attention for long, but I'm glad I visited it as it's beautiful!